Saturday, March 26, 2005
New Orleans.
7:30am. Canal St., with Gwen and Ella picking up Paula, my little sister. Streets are crazy as there is a marathon taking place. It's grey and misty and nearly impossible to get to Paula as the streets are all closed off. Thank God for cellphones. We found her (yay!) - so sweet to see her as it's been a long time! We headed back to Gwen and Andy's place
Went off to jam at the Bank Street Cafe with Marc Adams (keys with Bryan Lee) and friends - caught a set, then got up for a few songs next set. Played some bass 'n sang...was fun. I've realized this trip that I don't play much blues anymore..I feel like I've forgotten how to jam! Or what to jam, maybe, as I never get to 'em anymore.
Just got back from Frenchman Street. It was late and a lot of the clubs would be shutting down, so I had to move fast - I think I heard 5 bands in the space of an hour. Wicked musicianship all around.
DBA had some crazy-ass band - all the players names, too many to remember - 2 saxophones (1 guy was a guest, I believe) - organ, bass and drums. The guys played Back in Black by AC/DC - one of the sax players played his sax through a distortion pedal...sounded just like Angus Young! Then they played a little Hendrix -reminded me of a cross between the Toronto bands The Sisters Euclid and the Shuffle Demons. Was brilliant - my favorite find on Frenchman Street. Then off to The Blue Nile - Fly Me to the Moon, trumpet and trombone. Then across the street at Brazil ??? - reggae. Beautiful latin rhythms - 8 piece band, people dancing. Then sleepytime...
7:30am. Canal St., with Gwen and Ella picking up Paula, my little sister. Streets are crazy as there is a marathon taking place. It's grey and misty and nearly impossible to get to Paula as the streets are all closed off. Thank God for cellphones. We found her (yay!) - so sweet to see her as it's been a long time! We headed back to Gwen and Andy's place
Went off to jam at the Bank Street Cafe with Marc Adams (keys with Bryan Lee) and friends - caught a set, then got up for a few songs next set. Played some bass 'n sang...was fun. I've realized this trip that I don't play much blues anymore..I feel like I've forgotten how to jam! Or what to jam, maybe, as I never get to 'em anymore.
Just got back from Frenchman Street. It was late and a lot of the clubs would be shutting down, so I had to move fast - I think I heard 5 bands in the space of an hour. Wicked musicianship all around.
DBA had some crazy-ass band - all the players names, too many to remember - 2 saxophones (1 guy was a guest, I believe) - organ, bass and drums. The guys played Back in Black by AC/DC - one of the sax players played his sax through a distortion pedal...sounded just like Angus Young! Then they played a little Hendrix -reminded me of a cross between the Toronto bands The Sisters Euclid and the Shuffle Demons. Was brilliant - my favorite find on Frenchman Street. Then off to The Blue Nile - Fly Me to the Moon, trumpet and trombone. Then across the street at Brazil ??? - reggae. Beautiful latin rhythms - 8 piece band, people dancing. Then sleepytime...
Wednesday, March 23, 2005
After breakfast Wednesday at the Delta Amusement Centre, I wandered through the Sweet Home Chicago exhibit at the Delta Blues Museum in Clarksdale. There was so much fun stuff - the exhibit had some of the old amps, guitars, old clothing, AF of M union member listings, old recording gear, photographs, letters and postcards written by the artists. A couple things I found neat were the old plantation house that Muddy Waters grew up in, a letter from the Rolling Stones to Muddy Waters and a 1964 press release on the Rolling Stones who were big Muddy Waters fans. The press release also had a list of each of the band members favorite things - foods, hobbies among other things. Some I found amusing were as a teen Keith's favorite hobby was 'sleeping'; Mick enjoyed 'driving through the country alone', and 'girls'; Charlie also liked girls. Each band member also had huge aspirations - to have a #1 hit. After the museum, I checked out the Cat Head Delta Blues and Folk Art store then hit the Highway 322 north through the country, on my way to visit the gravesite of Mississippi Fred McDowell.
Will continue shortly...
Will continue shortly...
Tuesday, March 22, 2005
Got up the next morning, wandered over to the Blues Foundation office to meet Wesley Smith - Wesley is a contact of Dick Waterman's (who is a contact of Richard Flohil's - more on these fellows soon...). All these gentlemen have been tremendously helpful in connecting me with folks on this 'pilgrimmage'. Afterwards, I went for lunch, then made my way south down Highway 61 to Clarksdale.
The land around the highway reminded me a lot of driving through my home province, Saskatchewan - you can see as far as the eye will go across the farmer's fields. No crops up yet, and these crops aren't wheat like Saskatchewan...they're cotton.
Wrangled the Pinetop Perkins shack at the Shack Up Inn. The Shack Up Inn is a bunch of old sharecropper's cottages that were hauled to the Hopson Plantation land, just off of Highway 49, west of Highway 61. Pinetop's shack came complete with a piano, and a bunch of neat old pics of him. I believe he used to work years ago on the plantation before the help became mechanized.
I had spoken with Dick Waterman's friend Joni Mayberry a couple days earlier - we had a great chat about the south and some of the things I should expect - so far the term southern hospitality has wrung true - I've found most folks I've met to be extremely friendly and eager to help me out.
Joni works at the Delta Blues Museum in Clarksdale, and also at the commissary at the Hopson Plantation. Joni and I arranged to connect on Monday night at the Delta Amusement Blues Cafe, owned by a fellow named Bobby. Bobby is this gruff fellow whose voice sounds a little like a southern Michael Keaton in Beetlejuice. He likes to give everybody a hard time (but gives you a little wink while doing it). I guess it's another side of this southern hospitality...I wish I could remember half the things he said...southern sayings...had me laughing. Joni finally showed up with her bud, Toni and we ate the most incredible steak cooked by the Monday night cook, Michael, seasoned with a whack of delicious spices - the steak was tender and oh so tasty! One of the best I've ever eaten..
Afterwards Joni and I headed over to Toni's place, where the 2 of 'em told me about Jacqueline Nassar, Toni's daughter. Jacqueline is a 13 year old goth wunderkind - guitarist, vocalist, songwriter...huge talent, determined, focussed and sweet and humble.
Her Mom told me about her adventures in Los Angeles with Don Was, and another adventure with Morgan Freeman who is also a supporter of hers. He presented her the 2004 Robert Johnson Youth Achievement Award, a Gibson Robert Johnson L-1 guitar.
The land around the highway reminded me a lot of driving through my home province, Saskatchewan - you can see as far as the eye will go across the farmer's fields. No crops up yet, and these crops aren't wheat like Saskatchewan...they're cotton.
Wrangled the Pinetop Perkins shack at the Shack Up Inn. The Shack Up Inn is a bunch of old sharecropper's cottages that were hauled to the Hopson Plantation land, just off of Highway 49, west of Highway 61. Pinetop's shack came complete with a piano, and a bunch of neat old pics of him. I believe he used to work years ago on the plantation before the help became mechanized.
I had spoken with Dick Waterman's friend Joni Mayberry a couple days earlier - we had a great chat about the south and some of the things I should expect - so far the term southern hospitality has wrung true - I've found most folks I've met to be extremely friendly and eager to help me out.
Joni works at the Delta Blues Museum in Clarksdale, and also at the commissary at the Hopson Plantation. Joni and I arranged to connect on Monday night at the Delta Amusement Blues Cafe, owned by a fellow named Bobby. Bobby is this gruff fellow whose voice sounds a little like a southern Michael Keaton in Beetlejuice. He likes to give everybody a hard time (but gives you a little wink while doing it). I guess it's another side of this southern hospitality...I wish I could remember half the things he said...southern sayings...had me laughing. Joni finally showed up with her bud, Toni and we ate the most incredible steak cooked by the Monday night cook, Michael, seasoned with a whack of delicious spices - the steak was tender and oh so tasty! One of the best I've ever eaten..
Afterwards Joni and I headed over to Toni's place, where the 2 of 'em told me about Jacqueline Nassar, Toni's daughter. Jacqueline is a 13 year old goth wunderkind - guitarist, vocalist, songwriter...huge talent, determined, focussed and sweet and humble.
Her Mom told me about her adventures in Los Angeles with Don Was, and another adventure with Morgan Freeman who is also a supporter of hers. He presented her the 2004 Robert Johnson Youth Achievement Award, a Gibson Robert Johnson L-1 guitar.
Monday, March 21, 2005
I went to church on Sunday in Memphis - Reverend Al Green's church. Was the 3rd anniversary of my Mom's passing, and I thought it would be fitting to head to church to hear some gospel music; she used to love it when she got to hear it.
The church is located a little past Graceland, off Elvis Presley Blvd., down Hale Road - a very pretty tree-lined street. I felt like I was driving through the countryside in the middle of the city! Crept in the back of the church and sat alone as I was a little late (late night juke-jointin' will get you everytime..) - Tad and his crew were a bunch of rows over.
A choir member was singing "Let the Rain Fall Down" ever so sweetly. The band was cookin', was very moving.
A few more songs were song; then a woman named Shirley got up and welcomed all the visitors. Rev. Al got up shortly thereafter and asked each group of visitors where they were from; I think they should have renamed the church Reverend Al Green's International House of Prayer - there were folks from Germany, Japan, England, Sweden, Spain, Italy, Canada, and a bunch of visitors from around the States. I think there were as many visitors as there were parishioners! They invite all parishioners to walk to the front to donate their tithe; must have lasted 15 minutes. Al gave his sermon; was a lively and entertaining service; without getting into it, the sermon was a little harsh (ask me about it sometime if you wish), but I'm glad I attended.
After church I met up with Tad and crew at Gus's on Front near Beale for some delicious low-cal home cookin' (NOT!! farewell for a while, mon diet...at least while I'm in the south, y'all.).
Gus' is famous for its fried chicken...and fried chicken we had. Was very tasty...ended the meal with some deeelicious pecan pie. Headed to the hotel, the Talbot Heirs on 2nd - beautiful boutique hotel, ditched my gear and Tad drove me over to Sun Studios where I went on an incredible tour - I highly recommend it! Incredible history there - Elvis, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee, U2, B.B. King, among a bunch of others...I got shivers!
After the tour I went for a couple bevy's in the lobby of the Peabody Hotel, but the ducks from the fountain had already retired for the night...I kept my stir-stick with a duck on the top of it at least. Had a nap in my room, caught the Simpsons, the headed off to Wild Bills for a set. Another fun night in Memphis!
The church is located a little past Graceland, off Elvis Presley Blvd., down Hale Road - a very pretty tree-lined street. I felt like I was driving through the countryside in the middle of the city! Crept in the back of the church and sat alone as I was a little late (late night juke-jointin' will get you everytime..) - Tad and his crew were a bunch of rows over.
A choir member was singing "Let the Rain Fall Down" ever so sweetly. The band was cookin', was very moving.
A few more songs were song; then a woman named Shirley got up and welcomed all the visitors. Rev. Al got up shortly thereafter and asked each group of visitors where they were from; I think they should have renamed the church Reverend Al Green's International House of Prayer - there were folks from Germany, Japan, England, Sweden, Spain, Italy, Canada, and a bunch of visitors from around the States. I think there were as many visitors as there were parishioners! They invite all parishioners to walk to the front to donate their tithe; must have lasted 15 minutes. Al gave his sermon; was a lively and entertaining service; without getting into it, the sermon was a little harsh (ask me about it sometime if you wish), but I'm glad I attended.
After church I met up with Tad and crew at Gus's on Front near Beale for some delicious low-cal home cookin' (NOT!! farewell for a while, mon diet...at least while I'm in the south, y'all.).
Gus' is famous for its fried chicken...and fried chicken we had. Was very tasty...ended the meal with some deeelicious pecan pie. Headed to the hotel, the Talbot Heirs on 2nd - beautiful boutique hotel, ditched my gear and Tad drove me over to Sun Studios where I went on an incredible tour - I highly recommend it! Incredible history there - Elvis, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee, U2, B.B. King, among a bunch of others...I got shivers!
After the tour I went for a couple bevy's in the lobby of the Peabody Hotel, but the ducks from the fountain had already retired for the night...I kept my stir-stick with a duck on the top of it at least. Had a nap in my room, caught the Simpsons, the headed off to Wild Bills for a set. Another fun night in Memphis!
Sunday, March 20, 2005
Wow...what a journey so far.
Sitting here typing this blog, John Lee Hooker and Bonnie singing on the radio above my head. So cool.
I think I had to explain to about 10 American custom agents about my trip to New Orleans and the blues pilgrimmage. That I was taking a holiday. That I was going to eventually visit with my sister in New Orleans.
Oy vey.
Slept in Louisville, Kentucky last night. Thank God for chocolate keeping me alert and on the road!
I just got back from a wicked evening - toodled around Beale Street for a couple hours - ate some nummy ribs at The Pig (?) and listened to a blues band, then stopped into Big City Blues and listened to The Masqueraders - beautiful 4 part harmonies a'la Blind Boys/Holmes Brothers. Then went on an adventure with Tad Pierson of American Dream Safari - driving with his 3 friends from Kansas in his beautiful 55 caddy. Stopped for a moment by the Lorraine Motel, which is now the National Civil Rights Museum (sadly, where Martin Luther King was shot). Then we headed off to 2 off-the-beaten-track juke joints in Memphis - Wild Bill's and The Blue Worm. Wild Bill's was a tiny tiny spot jammed with a 100 guests and a 5 piece band - drums, guitar, keys, sax and bass...drummer sang. Tad introduced me to some of the band and we listened to them play the blues; I hung out near the front, the place was jammed with folks but they still managed to find room to dance. Place had a lot of character..small silver snowflakes hanging from the ceiling - beer advertisements with pics of bathing beauties behind the band, a shot of Joe Louis, too. Wildl Bill himself guarding the front door and collecting the cover. We caught some toonage then decided to head over to The Blue Worm. More music, more space, more dancers, a little less intimate but even managed to get up for the 2nd set and sing a song...(in a juke joint!...hee hee). Chatted with Betty, one of the owners, Lloyd the bartender and danced a wee bit. Was fun..
Gots to go to sleep now so I can hook up with Tad and crew be ready for Al Green's church in the morning.
Lovin' the adventures so far, and there's more to come...
xo
Suzie
Sitting here typing this blog, John Lee Hooker and Bonnie singing on the radio above my head. So cool.
I think I had to explain to about 10 American custom agents about my trip to New Orleans and the blues pilgrimmage. That I was taking a holiday. That I was going to eventually visit with my sister in New Orleans.
Oy vey.
Slept in Louisville, Kentucky last night. Thank God for chocolate keeping me alert and on the road!
I just got back from a wicked evening - toodled around Beale Street for a couple hours - ate some nummy ribs at The Pig (?) and listened to a blues band, then stopped into Big City Blues and listened to The Masqueraders - beautiful 4 part harmonies a'la Blind Boys/Holmes Brothers. Then went on an adventure with Tad Pierson of American Dream Safari - driving with his 3 friends from Kansas in his beautiful 55 caddy. Stopped for a moment by the Lorraine Motel, which is now the National Civil Rights Museum (sadly, where Martin Luther King was shot). Then we headed off to 2 off-the-beaten-track juke joints in Memphis - Wild Bill's and The Blue Worm. Wild Bill's was a tiny tiny spot jammed with a 100 guests and a 5 piece band - drums, guitar, keys, sax and bass...drummer sang. Tad introduced me to some of the band and we listened to them play the blues; I hung out near the front, the place was jammed with folks but they still managed to find room to dance. Place had a lot of character..small silver snowflakes hanging from the ceiling - beer advertisements with pics of bathing beauties behind the band, a shot of Joe Louis, too. Wildl Bill himself guarding the front door and collecting the cover. We caught some toonage then decided to head over to The Blue Worm. More music, more space, more dancers, a little less intimate but even managed to get up for the 2nd set and sing a song...(in a juke joint!...hee hee). Chatted with Betty, one of the owners, Lloyd the bartender and danced a wee bit. Was fun..
Gots to go to sleep now so I can hook up with Tad and crew be ready for Al Green's church in the morning.
Lovin' the adventures so far, and there's more to come...
xo
Suzie
Monday, March 14, 2005
I am heading off to the States this Friday on a "blues pilgrimmage"...driving down through Tennessee, Mississippi and Louisiana. Going to check out cotton fields, old blues haunts and the like...try and get a feel for where this music I've been playing for so long has come from. Going to connect with my sister in New Orleans; she's been working on a cruise ship since February and she docks there every Saturday so we'll get to visit for a few hours. I'm looking forward to it. I'll be back on the 31st...
